Nou Barris

Nou Barris is the northernmost district of Barcelona and remains largely unknown to many. It is a genuine working-class area characterized by large apartment buildings, mostly constructed in the latter half of the 20th century, to accommodate the thousands of Spanish immigrants who came to Barcelona in search of work.

Originally part of its neighboring district, Sant Andreu, Nou Barris became its own district in 1984 when the city reorganized its neighborhoods. Its name is believed to be derived from the magazine Districte 9, published by the district’s first neighborhood organization. However, others think it comes from the nine neighborhoods that initially formed this community (“nou barris” means “nine neighborhoods” in Catalan).

Despite being located on the city’s outskirts and being home to a mix of migrants, Nou Barris remains a true working-class area with its own character. While there are no major attractions, if you look carefully, you can find hidden gems: from tranquil city parks and old farms to authentic tapas bars! For more on what to see and do in Nou Barris, continue reading this neighborhood guide.

Why should you visit Nou Barris?

Nou Barris, a district of Barcelona, is often overlooked by tourists due to its location far from the city center and the lack of major sights. However, there are places in Nou Barris that are well worth exploring, especially if you want to venture off the beaten path and discover the Barcelona known to locals. Be aware that it is one of the poorest areas in Barcelona and that some parts may be less safe.

Where is Nou Barris?

Nou Barris is situated far from the city center on the northern side of Barcelona, between the Collserola mountains and the Besòs River. It serves as a main gateway to Barcelona from the north. The district borders other districts like Horta-Guinardó and Sant Andreu, as well as nearby towns like Montcada i Reixac.

The three neighborhoods behind the Collserola mountains (Ciutat Meridiana, Vallbona, and Torre Baró) make up an area known as the Zona Nord (northern zone) and are slightly more remote from the city.

The metro is the best way to reach Nou Barris, with Virrei Amat (L5), Llucmajor (L4), and Roquetes (L3) being good starting points for a walk through this lesser-known part of Barcelona.

If you’re coming from Barcelona El Prat Airport, you’ll need to take the metro (with a transfer) to get to Nou Barris.

Nou Barris neighborhood by neighborhood

Nou Barris is comprised of the following neighborhoods: Can Peguera | Canyelles | Ciutat Meridiana | La Guineueta | Porta | Prosperitat | Les Roquetes | Torre Baró | La Trinitat Nova | El Turó De La Peira | Vallbona | Verdum | Vilapicina i La Torre Llobeta. Due to urban growth and migration waves throughout the 20th century, Nou Barris rapidly transformed from farmland to a large working-class area.

The conditions for Nou Barris’ first residents were not ideal (think limited infrastructure and amenities, like schools or public transport). Although this has largely been resolved, some neighborhoods in Nou Barris still struggle with a poor image and are on average poorer than other city areas. It’s better to avoid places like Ciutat Meridiana, la Trinitat Nova, Vallbona, Torre Baró, and Les Roquetes for these reasons.

Can Peguera: a village in the city

Located at the foot of the northern side of Turó de la Peira hill, the Can Peguera neighborhood, also known as the Casas Baratas (“cheap houses”), was named after a farm that once stood here, known for its glue production from the abundant pine trees in the area. In 1928, the Patronat Municipal de l’Habitatge built a series of simple one-story houses, most with flat roofs and small front gardens, to relocate workers who were working on the 1929 World Exhibition and living in huts on Montjuïc.

These houses were originally named Ramon Albó, and unlike other groups of cheap houses, like those of Eduardo Aunós (in Sants-Montjuïc) and Baró de Viver (in Sant Andreu), have remained intact. It’s a small village within the city, complete with its own church, school, and more.

Don’t miss the nearby city park, Parc del Turó de la Peira, which offers fantastic views over Can Peguera and the rest of the city. Interestingly, during the civil war, a shelter was dug under Turó de la Peira for residents to hide during bombings (Carrer de Cornudella, 40).

Canyelles: the second magical fountain

Canyelles is one of the last planned neighborhoods created in Barcelona, aimed at providing affordable housing in 1978 for those with less to spend. Many of the new residents had previously lived in shacks on the slopes of Collserola, in a slum known as Guineueta Vella. The new neighborhood was designed by the same architects as the nearby Montbau and was also heavily influenced by modern architecture, with large apartment buildings featuring open spaces and straight lines.

Despite the ambitious construction plans, the new neighborhood suffered from a significant lack of infrastructure and services. Moreover, the quality of the construction materials and their finishing was not always good, which has caused problems later on. Neighborhood organizations were instrumental in making Canyelles a vibrant place. The opening of the Ronda de Dalt for the 1992 Olympics and the later arrival of the metro in 2001 opened the neighborhood’s doors to the city.

Interesting sights in the neighborhood include the striking block houses with pointed roofs and the Parc de Josep Serra Martí, which houses Barcelona’s second “magic fountain.” The Font màgica Manuel de Falla, like its counterpart in Montjuïc, combines water, color, and music in a spectacle, though it is much less known.

Ciutat Meridiana: poor suburb

Ciutat Meridiana is a mountainous neighborhood on the outskirts of Barcelona that has been notorious as a problem area from the start. Formerly part of the Pinós family’s land, it formed, along with Torre Baró and Vallbona, the so-called Quadra de Vallbona (now the Zona Nord).

The Ciutat Meridiana we know today was created in 1967 as a result of land speculation. The rapid, large-scale development, lack of amenities and connection to the city, plus the agglomeration of migrants and mostly illiterate workers, created a nest of poverty and problems.

Despite the arrival of the metro and other infrastructure, this vulnerability and disadvantage compared to the rest of the city have never been fully addressed, leaving Ciutat Meridiana a forgotten place that many Barcelonans have never visited. In the wealth ranking, Ciutat Meridiana always comes out as one of the poorest neighborhoods in Barcelona.

An interesting sight is the Ciutat Meridiana aqueduct, a 19th-century aqueduct that brought water from Vallès to Barcelona.

La Guineueta: old sanatorium

The barri of La Guineueta spreads on both sides of Passeig de Valldaura, between the Ronda de Dalt and Passeig d’Urrutia, an area that formerly belonged to the Can Guineueta farm, hence the name. Before La Guineueta was urbanized, a small stream called La Guineu flowed here. A sculpture of a fox (guineu in Catalan) in Parc de la Guineueta reminds us of this.

Its first major construction was the Manicomi de la Santa Creu sanatorium in the early 20th century. Of this immense complex, only the church and a few pavilions remain, now housing the library, the community center, and the police offices.

The first houses were built in the 1940s in what was known as Guineueta Vella, but the neighborhood took shape in the 1960s when large apartment buildings were erected to accommodate the many migrants.

The two large city parks in the neighborhood came later: Parc de la Guineueta in 1971 and Parc Central de Nou Barris at the end of 1999. The latter, in particular, is worth a visit: in addition to the beautiful lake with giant spouts, there are interesting sights to see, such as the medieval Dosrius aqueduct, the old 17th-century Can Carreras farmhouse, and the aforementioned pavilions of the old sanatorium.

Porta: Sports Center

The area now known as the neighborhood of Porta was formerly part of Santa Eulàlia de Vilapicina, a small area of the nearby Sant Andreu de Palomar. Porta was a farming area also known as Can Porta, rich in water thanks to the rivers descending from Collserola. Some of the old farms that stood here, like Can Valent and Can Verdaguer, can still be seen.

In 1834, the cemetery Cementiri de Sant Andreu was opened, and in 1862, the railway line that separated Porta from Sant Andreu was introduced. The neighborhood developed further with the construction of Rambla de Santa Eulàlia (now Passeig de Fabra i Puig), Passeig de Valldaura, Carrer del Doctor Pi i Molist, and Passeig de Verdum. Most apartments were built in the 1960s to provide housing for the many new migrants.

New infrastructures, such as the sports complex Parc de Can Dragó (on the old Renfe railway company site) in 1990 and the Heron City shopping center in 2005 (now SOM Multiespai), have renovated and enlivened the neighborhood.

One of the most well-known local meeting points, where all neighborhood festivals take place, is Plaça de Sóller. Interestingly, it is one of the largest squares in the city, created in 1983 thanks to neighborhood protests.

La Prosperitat: Former Slum Area

La Prosperitat, located between Via Júlia, Avinguda Meridiana, Passeig Valldaura, and Via Favència, emerged due to migration waves in the 1920s and 1940s. The first residents of La Prosperitat lived in shacks, and it wasn’t until 1957 that a plan was made to build apartments. Unlike its neighboring areas, La Prosperitat is more densely built, with less space for greenery or large infrastructures.

However, there are hidden gems here, such as the Renaissance church Parroquia de Santa Eulàlia, the square Plaça d’Àngel Pestaña by the famous architectural studio Miralles Tagliabue EMBT, sculptures by Jaume Plensa at Carrer del Conflent, and the bustling shopping street Via Júlia. Given its modest beginnings from shacks, its name “la prosperitat” (prosperity) is quite fitting.

Les Roquetes: Overlooking the City

Located by the city hill Turó de les Roquetes and surrounded by Via Favència and the neighborhoods Trinitat Nova and Canyelles, lies Les Roquetes. A real working-class neighborhood that emerged in the 1950s with the arrival of many migrants, many of whom built their own houses without municipal permission. With no other facilities, these same residents built their own water and sewage systems on their free days. At the same time, numerous neighborhood protests led to the introduction of public transport and the opening of sanitary facilities and schools. This difficult beginning fostered a sense of brotherhood among the residents of Roquetes, a sentiment that still exists today.

Another significant feature of Roquetes is the slope in the neighborhood, as it is situated on a hill. This offers spectacular panoramic views of the city at various points in the area, such as at Plaça de les Roquetes, Plaça de Salvador Puig i Antich, and Mirador de Llobera.

Torre Baró: Unfinished Castle

Torre Baró, nestled between Ciutat Meridiana and Roquetes in a mountainous area with steep slopes behind the Collserola hills, is a neighborhood that emerged in the 1950s and 1960s, characterized by much self-construction. This explains the chaotic house building and many shortcomings of the neighborhood, making Torre Baró a unique place.

The name Torre Baró comes from a house with that name. The Pinós family owned this area, then known as Quadra de Vallbona, extending to Ciutat Meridiana and Vallbona. The Baron de Pinós built Torre Baró here in the 16th century. The house, located where Torre Baró’s station is now, was demolished by order of Philip V as retaliation against the baron for fighting against the Bourbons during the War of Spanish Succession in 1714. The baron built a second house in 1797, which disappeared in 1967 with the opening of La Meridiana.

The castle ruins of Torre Baró have nothing to do with the baron, except that they bear the name Castell de Torre Baró. The unfinished castle was originally intended as a luxury hotel and would belong to a beautiful city garden. The project failed, and the castle remained unfinished, overtaken by vandals. Castell de Torre Baró became both a landmark and a meeting point for the neighborhood’s residents, who were pleased with its restoration and opening as a museum and viewpoint in 2014.

La Trinitat Nova: Poor Neighborhood

Located between the neighborhoods of Roquetes and Trinitat Vella, Trinitat Nova, literally translated as “new Trinity,” originated in the 1950s with the construction of social housing to accommodate thousands of migrants from other Spanish regions. Like the rest of the district at that time, the neighborhood was poorly connected to the rest of the city and lacked various facilities and services. The poor quality of the buildings and the problems they caused forced the municipality to demolish many houses in many cases. It wasn’t until the early 21st century that the metro reached Trinitat Nova. All this left Trinitat Nova behind, becoming one of the poorest neighborhoods in Barcelona.

One of the best-known places in the area is L’Ateneu Popular 9 Barris, an important cultural center for the neighborhood. The clock tower Torre del Rellotge, for many years a symbol of the neighborhood, was unfortunately demolished in 2013. The Mirador de Aiguablava, on the edge of Trinitat Nova, is a fantastic viewpoint overlooking the northern access roads to Barcelona, near the modernist water pumping station Casa de l’Aigua.

El Turó De La Peira: City Hill and Old Settlement

The neighborhood of El Turó de la Peira, next to the hill of the same name on the northern side of Passeig Fabra i Puig, was built in the 1950s and 1960s due to the housing shortage Barcelona faced. Previously, this was an agricultural area, dotted with farms and forests atop the Turó de la Peira (formerly Turó de Montarell).

Here was the old settlement of Santa Eulàlia de Vilapicina, formed by the 10th-century church of Santa Eulàlia de Vilapicina, the 15th-century guest house Ca n’Artés, and the 17th-century Can Basté farmhouse (with its 18th-century bridge). These historical sites, along with the park near Turó de la Peira, are the major attractions in the area.

Vallbona: The Old Water Channel

Vallbona, the northernmost neighborhood of Barcelona, was isolated from the city for many years. Owned by the Pinós family, the same as Torre Baró, since the 15th century, it formed the so-called Quadra de Vallbona along with Torre Baró and Ciutat Meridiana. At the beginning of the 20th century, there was a city garden project that did not flourish, and after World War II, modest houses began to be built. The construction of highways at the end of the 1960s isolated the neighborhood. The arrival of the metro and the construction of the bridge connecting the neighborhood with Torre Baró significantly improved Vallbona’s accessibility. Still, Vallbona looks like a village, albeit one with neglected maintenance and vacant lots.

The 7 hectares of La Ponderosa are the last piece of farmland within the city limits. However, Vallbona is especially known for the Rec Comtal, a 12-kilometer medieval water channel that brought water from Montcada to Barcelona, still visible in many parts of Vallbona in its original state.

Verdum: Long Shopping Street

Verdum, located in the central part of Nou Barris between Via Júlia and Via Favència, emerged from the rapid construction of very low-quality social housing in the 1950s. Many of these buildings have had to be replaced by new construction in recent years.

Via Júlia, opened in 1986 as the central promenade, shopping street, and traffic artery for the neighborhood, is adorned with artworks by visual artists such as Jaume Plensa, Sergi Aguilar, and Antoni Roselló. The Torre Favència is a reference point for pedestrians on Via Júlia; a glass and iron tower that marks the end of Via Júlia. On the other side of Via Júlia stands the Monument a la República, the sculpture by Josep Viladomat with the image of Francesc Pi i Margall, who was the president of the short-lived First Spanish Republic in 1873. Also notable is Torre Júlia, modern social housing for the elderly designed by Spanish architects Pau Vidal, Sergi Pons, and Ricard Galiana, awarded the Premi Ciutat de Barcelona prize.

Vilapicina i La Torre Llobeta: Historic Place

Vilapicina i Torre Llobeta is the southernmost area of Nou Barris and was the first to be urbanized. Its name stems from the nearby old settlement Santa Eulàlia de Vilapicina and the manor house Torre Llobeta. The latter is a beautiful Gothic-style mansion built in the 15th century and later converted into a farmhouse with a large plot of farmland. At the end of the 18th century, it was a well-known rest stop for travelers and walkers going from Horta to Barcelona. The old farmhouse still exists, although it was converted into a community center by the municipality in 1983.

The neighborhood’s first urbanization occurred following the family of the painter Ramon Casas, who owned the Can Garrigó estate (around the current Plaça de Can Garrigó) in 1900. After the Civil War, the area around Torre Llobeta was designated for social housing to make room for the homeless created by the opening of Avinguda Drassanes. The charming houses of Passatge de l’Esperança, dating from 1925, were an initiative of a dockworkers’ cooperative. The houses on Passatge de Santa Eulàlia, Arquitecte Millás, and Esperança are very special to see and are the last testimony of what the neighborhood used to look like.

In complete contrast, the always lively Passeig de Fabra i Puig and Plaça de Virrei Amat are where locals meet. Where the garage for Barcelona’s buses once stood, a large square with other neighborhood institutions has been placed, such as a library, sports center, and day center for the elderly. Also interesting to see is the old water tower of Carrer Cartellà, which once belonged to Joan Oliver’s starch factory. The three palm trees in Plaça de Torre Llobeta continue to be the emblem of the neighborhood.

Guide to Nou Barris

Born out of the housing shortage in the second half of the 20th century, Nou Barris is one of the youngest districts of Barcelona. This is evident in its buildings, squares, and city parks. However, you won’t find Nou Barris in your travel guide: it lacks notable attractions, and no tourist bus passes through. Some areas in Nou Barris are even best avoided by tourists. Yet, this district has its charms and hidden gems. To get to know the district like a local, follow my tips!

Must-See Attractions

Since Nou Barris is a suburb of Barcelona developed later in the 20th century, it has few attractions. Those curious about Barcelona’s periphery and what lies in the tourist-free zones can explore the following sights.

• Conjunt històric Santa Eulàlia de Vilapicina: Located near Carrer de Pere d’Artés (next to Passeig de Fabra i Puig), this historical site includes the 10th-century church of Santa Eulàlia de Vilapicina, the 15th-century guest house Ca n’Artés, and the 17th-century Can Basté farmhouse, direct witnesses to the rural past of Nou Barris.
• La Torre Llobeta: A stately 15th-century house and former farmhouse, now serving as a community center with a beautiful square in front for relaxation. The three palm trees in Plaça de Torre Llobeta are the emblem of the neighborhood.
• Can Peguera: The last example of “casas baratas” (cheap houses) visible in Barcelona. These simple houses were built to accommodate workers of the 1929 World Exhibition and have since formed a small village within the city.
• Turó de la Peira: This city hill, transformed into a city park, offers fantastic views and beautiful nature.
• Parc Central de Nou Barris: This modern city park, with its spouts and small lake, an old aqueduct, remnants of a farmhouse, and an old sanatorium, is one of the most enjoyable attractions in Nou Barris. Especially great for children!
• Castell de Torre Baró: The unfinished castle of Torre Baró is one of the symbols of Nou Barris. Despite its name, it was actually built as a luxury hotel (though never completed). Its privileged location on top of a mountain offers an incredible view over Barcelona and everything beyond the mountains. Since 2014, a museum inside the castle explains the history of Torre Baró.
• Casa de l’Aigua de Trinitat Nova: The former water supply point for the northern neighborhoods of Barcelona. This modernist building, designed by engineers Felip Steva i Planas and Joan Sitjes, is now an emblematic cultural attraction that belongs to the Ruta Modernista of Barcelona (Modernista walking route).
• Rec Comtal: The large water channel that has provided Barcelonans with water for over 1,000 years. Its origins date back to the Middle Ages, probably the 10th century, when Count Mir decided to improve the Roman aqueducts bringing water from Collserola and the river Besòs. Parts of the Rec Comtal are still well preserved in Vallbona.
• Parc de Can Dragó: This 12-hectare park, designed by Enric Pericas in 1990, is a popular spot for locals to walk or jog. The park also houses a sports center with a swimming pool, athletics track, and football field.
• Via Júlia: A well-known shopping street and promenade where locals stroll and meet.

Fun Things to Do in Nou Barris

In Nou Barris, you experience Barcelona’s working-class life and easily interact with locals, as tourists are scarcely seen. Here are some suggestions to explore Nou Barris and experience it like a local.

• Tapas Among the Locals: In Nou Barris, you’ll find authentic bars serving homemade tapas as they should be. Join the locals at the bar or on the terrace for a cold beer with a tapa.
• Shopping Among the Locals: Nou Barris has several great shopping streets, such as Via Júlia, Passeig de Fabra i Puig, and Carrer de Pi i Molist. You’ll even find a Zeeman store on the latter! Other great shopping spots include the SOM Multiespai outlet shopping center (formerly Heron City) and the El Corte Inglés department store.
• Follow the Water Route: Nou Barris used to be a water-rich area with many rivers and streams descending from the Collserola mountains. Important attractions related to this are the Rec Comtal (a medieval water channel), the Baix Vallès and Dosrius aqueducts (from the 19th century), and the modernist Casa de l’Aigua (from the early 20th century).
• Old Farmhouses: Though it looks very different today, Nou Barris was once mainly farmland, vegetable gardens, vineyards, estates, and forests. Traces of this rural past can be seen in the old core of Santa Eulàlia de Vilapicina and the remaining masies (farmhouses) of Can Basté, Torre Llobeta, Can Verdaguer, and Can Valent.
• Beautiful Viewpoints: Nou Barris has several viewpoints, most of which are still unknown to the general public. Enjoy the views from Plaça de les Roquetes and Plaça de Salvador Puig i Antich in Les Roquetes, the viewpoint atop Torre Baró, or Turó de la Peira.
• Hiking in Nature: Nou Barris is one of the gateways to the Collserola natural park, full of great hiking trails for enthusiastic walkers. A nice route is from Castell de Torre Baró to Casa de l’Aigua de Trinitat Nova. Turó de la Peira is also a nice place to walk through.

Nou Barris with Kids

Scattered throughout the district, you’ll find several playgrounds and city parks where children can play happily, such as in Turó de la Peira or Parc Central de Nou Barris. Personal favorites for little kids are the playgrounds at Plaça d’Alvaro Cunqueiro, Plaça de la Torre Llobeta, and Plaça Sóller. For older children, the playgrounds at Plaça de Can Garrigó and Plaça de Can Sitjar have some really cool play equipment.

A visit to the SOM Multiespai outlet shopping center with kids is also highly recommended; besides shopping, they can play, buy candy, jump on trampolines, or go to the cinema.

Events in Nou Barris

Various events are organized in Nou Barris throughout the year, many representing the regional origins of its residents.

• Pinxu-Panxo: a tapas tour along the bars of Nou Barris.
• Dia d’Andalusia: every first Sunday of March, on Andalusia Day, flowers are laid at the sculpture of Josep Lluís Delgado in honor of Blas Infante. He was a politician from Andalusia, considered the father of Andalusia, but was executed without trial by fascists in 1936.
• Cruces de mayo: for two weeks in May, this typical Andalusian festival takes place in Nou Barris, organized by Andalusians who have migrated here.
• Festival de Sopes del Món: a soup festival for soup lovers! During the Festival de Sopes del Món, soup recipes from around the world are cooked and tasted by the residents.
• Fira Medieval de Nou Barris: this medieval market is one of the most fun events during the Festa Major de Nou Barris, which takes place in May. Various crafts and life in the medieval era are playfully depicted during the Fira Medieval.
• Festival Flamenco Nou Barris: in early June, this flamenco festival is held in the Pati de la Seu del Districte de Nou Barris.
• Roquetes Fashion Week: in June, the Roquetes Fashion Week takes place, a festive fashion show where residents walk the catwalk as models for a day.
• Christmas Market Via Júlia: in December, a cozy Christmas market is always organized under the awnings of Via Júlia.

Eating in Nou Barris

Nou Barris is not particularly known for its culinary offerings. However, you can eat deliciously without spending too much, at the most authentic places where only locals go! The fact that Nou Barris originated from migrants from all over Spain is also evident in the restaurant offerings: from Basque to Aragonese restaurants can be found here. Some of my favorite dining addresses in Nou Barris are listed below.

Coffee and Bakeries

• Forn Panes Creativos (Plaça de Garrigó, 5): a well-known bakery with very special breads, where courses and workshops are also offered.
• Fleca Pans i Glops (Passeig de Fabra i Puig, 201): a bakery where you can also sit for a cup of coffee with something sweet.
• Lliso Lis (Passeig de Fabra i Puig, 218): a cake shop and bakery to die for.

Lunch Spots

• 5 Hermanos (Carrer de Federico García Lorca, 31): a renowned family restaurant in a very unexpected location.
• Restaurant Casa Julio (Carrer dels Garrofers, 65): Spanish restaurant with a homely atmosphere and traditional dishes.
• El All I Oli (Carrer d’Alella, 3): Catalan restaurant with a very original decoration. Suitable for large groups.

Restaurants

• Txapeldun Egarri (Passeig de Fabra i Puig, 159): Basque tavern and restaurant, where you can eat delicious pintxos, tapas, meat, and fish dishes from the north.
• Maruzella (Passeig de Maragall, 304): Italian pizzeria with delicious pizzas (also available for takeout).
• Restaurante Fragola (Carrer de Lorena, 97): an informal pizzeria with a wide range of pizzas (also available for takeout).

Tapas Bars

• La Esquinica (Passeig de Fabra i Puig, 296): the most famous tapas bar in the neighborhood. The long queues indicate how good this place is! Try their pataticas bravicas (spicy potatoes), croquetas (croquettes), chocos (fried squid), chipirones (fried small squid), and calamares a la romana (fried squid rings).
• La Bodegueta D’en Miquel (Carrer de la Font d’en Canyelles, 47): an authentic neighborhood bodega with wine from the barrel and delicious tapas and montaditos.
• La Cholita (Carrer de Felip II, 244): a modern tapas restaurant with a hip interior.

Drinks and Nightlife in Nou Barris

Nou Barris is not a real nightlife spot, so the options for going out are quite limited.

Staying in Nou Barris

Since this is not a tourist attraction and is relatively far from the center, there are not many hotels in the Nou Barris area. This district is only suitable if you want to stay in the outskirts of Barcelona for some reason. These hotels are usually much cheaper than those in the center of Barcelona.