Horta-Guinardó

Horta-Guinardó is by far one of the most versatile and surprising places in Barcelona. The district, spread over several hills, developed mainly in the 1940s-1960s. Before that, it was primarily an agricultural area with many farms and villages like Horta, where wealthy Barcelonans built their summer homes. Horta-Guinardó is now known for the park with the labyrinth, the viewpoint Bunkers del Carmel, the modernist Hospital de Sant Pau, and the sports and hospital complex La Vall d’Hebron. You won’t encounter many tourists here: however, a visit to Horta-Guinardó is very worthwhile when looking for the Barcelona of the locals. In this guide, I take you to Horta-Guinardó and show you everything this district has to offer.

Why should you visit Horta-Guinardó?

A visit to Horta-Guinardó shows you another Barcelona: that of the hills, with its impossibly steep roads, old villages, summer houses, and masies (farmhouses) that were swallowed by the city, and the most beautiful hidden viewpoints. Horta-Guinardó is highly recommended for those who want to take it easy in Barcelona and enjoy being among the locals.

Where is Horta-Guinardó?

Horta-Guinardó is located in the northeast of Barcelona, on the edge of the city against the Collserola mountain range. The district itself has many elevation differences due to its hilly landscape. This can be a hindrance for people with mobility issues, although the city has been trying to alleviate this for years by installing elevators, escalators, and special bus lines to make life in the district easier. The benefit is the spectacular views that come with it.

Thanks to the metro and bus, Horta-Guinardó is well connected to the rest of the city. Good metro stops to further explore the neighborhoods are Horta (L5), Alfons X (L4), and Mundet (L3). Coming from Barcelona Airport, you need to take the metro (with transfers) to travel to Horta-Guinardó.

Horta-Guinardó Neighborhood by Neighborhood

Horta-Guinardó is formed by the following barris (neighborhoods): El Baix Guinardó | El Guinardó | Can Baró | El Carmel | La Font D’en Fargues | Horta | La Clota | Montbau | Sant Genís Dels Agudells | La Teixonera | La Vall D’hebron. This is a mountainous area, which was once rich in water. This promoted agricultural activities and other small-scale industries, but also attracted wealthy Barcelonans who built their holiday homes here to spend the summer.

Today, this is one of the greenest and most peaceful districts to live in, fortunately untouched by mass tourism. Except for a few places, this is predominantly a working-class neighborhood where a friendly atmosphere prevails, and you can pick up the real Barcelona vibe.

El Guinardó: Natural Surroundings

Around the hill of El Guinardó lies the neighborhood of the same name, which, thanks to its privileged location atop a hill, was already inhabited by the Iberians. It was once a wooded area, similar to the greenery you can now find at the top of Parc del Guinardó, with many farms, vineyards, and agriculture. Farms such as Mas Guinardó, La Torre del Pardals, or Can Garcini date back to the 17th century.

The urbanization of the area began at the end of the 19th century, after Salvador Riera was granted permission on February 17, 1897, to build houses on his estate. The first wave of construction involved small houses with a garden at the back, like those at Passatge Tinent Costa, Carrer de Sales i Ferré (number 30), or Carrer de la Torre dels Pardals (number 71), alongside the construction of large summer homes for the wealthy from Barcelona, such as Can Planàs, Can Xifré, or Torre de Can-Ravellat Pla. El Guinardó also attracted many anarchists and people who wanted to live in contact with nature.

The second wave of construction began in the 1950s and marked the end of an era: the “house with a garden” was replaced by large apartment buildings, and the rural and rustic spirit of El Guinardó was lost in modern city life.

Fortunately, there are still places to escape this hustle and bustle, such as Parc del Guinardó, where the famous statue of Nen de la Rutlla stands, or the Jardins del Doctor Pla i Armengol and the viewpoint Mirador de la Mitja Lluna, offering beautiful views of the city. But the biggest attractions of the neighborhood are undoubtedly the modernist hospital complex of Lluís Domènech i Montaner, Hospital de Sant Pau, and the old farmhouse Mas Guinardó, now transformed into a community center.

El Baix Guinardó: A Moorish Palace

Where once there were vegetable gardens and only a few houses, now lies the highly urbanized area of Baix Guinardó. This area follows the block structure of l’Eixample, the neighborhood to which it is adjacent.

Parc de les Aigües, with the Moorish palace Casa de les Altures, and Jardins del Baix Guinardó (formerly known as Jardins del Príncep de Girona), with the old Casernes de Girona, are two of its major attractions.

Other highlights in the neighborhood include the monumental building of Quinta de Salut l’Aliança and Mas Casanovas, a beautiful house that once served as a luxury hotel. This area also hosted the first football field of FC Barcelona, which used the adjacent hotel as a locker room.

Another hidden gem in the neighborhood is the simple English-style houses preserved at Passatge Costa and those of Passatge Sant Pere and Passatge de Boné. On the walls of the latter, at the corner with Carrer Lepant, you can also find a large mural by street artist Miss Van.

Can Baró: The Quarry

The barri of Can Baró, situated at the foot and on the slopes of Turó de la Rovira, originated around the namesake farmhouse on Plaça de Can Baró dating back to 1674. The neighborhood took shape in the 1920s and grew rapidly due to the migration waves of the 1950s-1960s. At that time, Can Baró had as many as three shantytowns: Los Cañones (at Bunkers del Carmel), Raimon Casellas, and Francisco Alegre, inhabited until 1990.

Another distinguishing feature of this neighborhood is the quarries, which were intensively exploited throughout almost the entire 20th century. The impressive holes on the side of Carrer Mühlberg are a beautiful testimony to this. These can be well observed from the Mühlberg bridge.

El Carmel: A Working-Class Neighborhood

Before the construction of the primitive church Ermita del Carmel in 1864, this hill was known as Turó d’en Móra, due to the Can Móra farmhouse. It was a popular leisure spot where various festivities were organized at the beginning of the 20th century. In the 1940s, the first residents began settling in El Carmel, and the neighborhood truly took shape after the 1960 migration wave.

Many migrants from other regions of Spain came to Barcelona looking for work and ended up here. Most worked during the day and built their own homes without municipal permission at night to make room for their families, with whom they would later reunite. As a result, the residents of El Carmel struggled for many years with a lack of basic amenities like water, electricity, sewage systems, or public transportation.

For the so-called “staircase neighborhood” (in the streets of Murta, Santuari, and Feijoo), residents even had to dig into the rocks of the mountain to create stairs.

Thanks to neighborhood activism, many improvements have been made, culminating in the arrival of the metro in 2010. And although much has changed in recent years, El Carmel remains a true working-class neighborhood.

Due to its high location, El Carmel’s residents enjoy beautiful views of the city, especially from the viewpoints at Carrer Santuari and the peaks of Turó de la Rovira (Bunkers del Carmel) and Turó del Carmel. Carrer del Llobregós is the commercial artery and the beating heart of the neighborhood.

La Font d’en Fargues: A Garden City

The peaceful neighborhood of La Font d’en Fargues is the result of the construction plans of Montserrat de Casanovas (Can Fargues), heiress of Mas Pujol, and her husband Pere Fargas i Sagristà, who began transforming their estate at La Font d’en Fargues into a garden city in 1912, as was popular at the time. Thus, the first (holiday) homes and villas with large gardens were built.

The new neighborhood, situated on a hill, attracted many city dwellers who chose to live outside the city for health reasons. A group of journalists also decided to live here (in the streets of Carrer de Pere Sala and Josep Yxart). After the civil war, many of the wealthy neighbors did not return, and many of the villas were converted into nursing homes and schools or were replaced by high-standard luxury apartment complexes.

The tranquility and feeling of being surrounded by nature still prevail here, making La Font d’en Fargues a unique place in the city, albeit with a price tag. The name of the neighborhood refers to the fountain located here, known for the good quality of its water, where aplecs (outdoor festivals) were organized in the past.

The (now disappeared) Font de la Mulassa was another well-known fountain where people gathered. Today, this happens at the cultural center El Casal Font d’en Fargues, which opened in 1928 as a casino and cultural institution for theater and music performances. Architect Adolf Florensa, who also had a holiday home nearby, designed El Casal and the church Església de Sant Antoni de Pàdua.

Horta: The Labyrinth and the Laundresses

Horta, until 1904 an independent municipality named Sant Joan d’Horta, extended further than its current size. Located in a water-rich valley, Horta had excellent soil for agriculture. Hence, this area once had more than fifty farms! Some of these masies, like Can Cortada, Can Mariner, Can Bacardí, and Can Querol, have been preserved. The same water also supported other small family businesses, such as those of the laundresses or tanneries, which also required a lot of water.

Horta also became the summer residence for wealthy inhabitants of Barcelona, who built their magnificent summer houses here between the end of the 19th century and the early 20th century. An example of this can be seen in the beautiful villas on Carrer de Campoamor and the houses on Carrer Salses and Carrer Feliu Codina. Gradually, farms were also transformed into stately homes, some of which gained significant status, like the gardens and palace of the Marquis of Alfarràs in the Laberint d’Horta.

Despite annexation with the big city, Horta has never really lost its village atmosphere. Plaça Eivissa is still the undisputed meeting point for the hortencs who like to sit on the terrace of El Quimet d’Horta. Other cozy squares in the neighborhood include Plaça de Santes Creus, where the old town hall lies, and the child-friendly Plaça de Bacardí. For shopping, locals visit the local market and shops on Carrer Lisboa, Tajo, Baixada de la Plana, and Dante. Various cultural community organizations and sports clubs also ensure an active neighborhood agenda.

The northernmost area of the neighborhood is quieter and residential, where many old houses remain from the time when Horta was a village, such as the modernist Ca l’Oliveres. However, the biggest attraction and the reason many people visit Horta remains the Parc del Laberint d’Horta; the oldest city park in Barcelona, which also has a real labyrinth!

An increasingly popular place is the Mirador de Mundet, a viewpoint at the foot of Collserola where a swing has been placed with a stunning view of the city.

La Clota: A Village in the City

La Clota is a neighborhood that developed around the old farmhouse Can Tarrida. This was lost with the opening of Avinguda de l’Estatut. The smallest part of Horta-Guinardó, it is still the place where the rural past of this district is most evident. Although there are plans to redevelop the area, it is still possible to walk through these dusty streets with old simple houses and vegetable gardens. An idyllic place far away from the city’s hustle and bustle.

The highlight of the neighborhood is the tower on Carrer Puríssima. It is said that its owner intended it to see the sea from the top. Also interesting to see is the Torre Jussana, a neoclassical building from 1804, and the award-winning house on Passatge de Feliu, a modern house by the architectural studio Miralles Tagliabue EMBT, which won the FAD interior design award in 2000. A good view of the neighborhood can be had from the Jardins dels Garrofers.

Montbau: A European Neighborhood

Montbau is a relatively new neighborhood at the foot of the Collserola mountains, created in the 1960s on the initiative of the mayor, who wanted to create a neighborhood with social housing for 10,000 residents. Inspired by post-war European architecture from cities like Rotterdam and Berlin, its architects used rationalism as a source of inspiration to build numerous block houses in clean lines and first-class materials, with plenty of space for public and green areas. Even the church was inspired by Le Courbusier’s style. This resulted in a unique, very European-oriented neighborhood, where the livability and quality of life of its residents were a priority.

Most of the neighborhood, like the Ermita de Sant Cebrià and Palau de les Heures, is within the Collserola natural park. Large complexes such as the Ciutat Sanitaria de la Vall d’Hebrón hospital and Llars Mundet, which include universities, sports centers, and residences for elderly care, make it a frequently visited place.

Sant Genís Dels Agudells: The Senior Citizen Neighborhood

Sant Genís Dels Agudells, another neighborhood at the foot of Collserola, is known for having the most senior citizens per square meter. Its location in the mountains on the other side of the Ronda de Dalt makes Sant Genís dels Agudells quite isolated from the rest of Barcelona, an issue its residents hope to solve with the future covering of the Ronda de Dalt.

The neighborhood developed around the namesake church and the adjacent farmhouse of Can Safont. This church is one of the oldest in Barcelona and was long associated with the monastery of Sant Jeroni de la Vall d’Hebron, located further up in the mountains. Sant Genís began its urban development in the second half of the 20th century, despite the challenging mountainous terrain.

One of the most beautiful buildings in Sant Genís is the Patronat Ribes (now Institut Vall d’Hebron), an old orphanage designed by Enric Sagnier i Villavecchia. The old farmhouse of Can Figuerola, now the Palmero art museum, is also located here. One of the best-known viewpoints over Barcelona, that of Carretera de l’Arrabassada, is also nearby.

La Teixonera: A Summer Residence

The neighborhood of La Teixonera lies on the northern side of Turó de la Creueta del Coll. It is a mountainous area that was once owned by the shoe manufacturer Joaquim Taxonera and used as a summer residence.

Although Taxonera had plans to turn it into a luxury holiday village, the Colònia Taxonera, its remote location was not conducive, and he eventually had to sell the plots to other shopkeepers and small industrialists, sometimes even in installments. He himself owned the house at Carrer Besòs number 17-19, which is now used by the neighborhood residents for elderly day care and various cultural purposes.

Immigration reached the neighborhood in the 1950s as a result of the construction of the nearby La Vall d’Hebron hospital complex. Many of the workers settled here in simple self-built houses. The simple houses and summer residences of Colònia Taxonera were then replaced in the 1960s and 1970s by apartments to accommodate new migrants.

Only a few houses from its rural past remain, which can be seen, among other places, on Carrer de Segur and Carrer de Trueba, along with the last tile factory in Barcelona, Bòbila Carmen (Plaça Numen Mestre).

La Vall d’Hebron: The Largest Hospital

La Vall d’Hebron is mainly known for the eponymous hospital. It is the largest hospital in the city and in all of Catalonia and is located nearby. The area began developing in 1969, following the construction of the Parc de la Vall d’Hebron apartments, on the land of Can Travi Vell, Can Travi Nou, Can Marcet, Can Brasó, and Can Rossell.

This modern neighborhood of block houses still has several interesting sights, such as the Monestir de les Mares Mínimes, the old farmhouses Can Travi Vell (now the police station of the Guàrdia Urbana in Horta-Guinardó), Can Travi Nou (now a renowned restaurant), La Granja Vella (now the Martí-Codolar student complex), and the Pavelló de la República, a building designed for the 1937 Paris World Fair. Other buildings (such as the black-and-white apartments at Avinguda de Can Marcet), and various sports fields, were built for the 1992 Olympic Games. But the real highlight remains the giant sculpture of matches by Claes Oldenburg.

Guide to Horta-Guinardó

Horta-Guinardó is the greenest district of Barcelona and undoubtedly one of the best places to discover authentic Barcelona. Major hotspots or tourist attractions are not mentioned in travel guides, but a closer look reveals a district full of history with beautiful natural areas and hidden viewpoints. Its visible rural past, the summer residences, and the construction frenzy during the post-Civil War migration waves make it a unique place. Horta-Guinardó is a true jewel where you constantly marvel… if you know where to look. Therefore, follow my tips and experience Horta-Guinardó like a local.

Essential Attractions in Horta-Guinardó

Horta-Guinardó has several well-known attractions such as the viewpoint Bunkers del Carmel, the modernist Hospital de Sant Pau, or the labyrinth in Parc del Laberint d’Horta, which you must see.

• Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau: Europe’s most important Art Nouveau complex and one of the world’s most beautiful hospitals, designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner. The historic part of the Hospital de Sant Pau now functions as a museum.
• Bunkers del Carmel: for many, the most beautiful viewpoint in Barcelona. A must-see when you’re in Barcelona!
• Parc del Laberint d’Horta: the famous Horta labyrinth is a beloved spot among local families, who come here to have fun with their kids.
• Mirador de l’Arrabassada: a viewpoint on the Collserola mountain range that overlooks the city. A favorite among many locals, especially as a romantic spot.
• Els Mistos (or Las Cerillas): the large matches by American sculptor Claes Oldenburg are a real eye-catcher in the neighborhood. A tribute to the objects of our daily life, but in XXL size.
• Carrer d’Aiguafreda: an idyllic place and a direct testimony of the work of the laundresses from Horta.
• Turó del Carmel: a lesser-known hill where you can hike while enjoying great views.
• Casa de les Altures: a beautiful building in Neo-Moorish style designed by Enric Figueres in 1890 to serve as a house for the director of Barcelona’s water company, hence the park where the palace is now located is called Parc de les Aigües.
• Parc del Guinardó: this city park is also on a hill and offers beautiful views over the city.
• Plaça Eivissa: the undisputed meeting point of the residents in Horta and a cozy square to sit on the terrace among the locals.
• Carrer de Campoamor: the old Rambla de Cortada was built by the arrival of wealthy Barcelonans who built their summer houses here, and it also houses the Parròquia de Sant Joan d’Horta, the church of the hortencs.
• Font d’en Fargues: a modernist fountain that used to stand in the middle of nature and where people gathered to celebrate; the so-called aplecs.
• Passeig de Maragall: a long promenade and busy thoroughfare that has historically connected the village of Horta with Barcelona.

Fun Things to Do in Horta-Guinardó

A visit to Horta-Guinardó is perfect for getting to know the authentic Barcelona; that of the city hills and lively working-class neighborhoods with old-fashioned shops and taverns, far from the tourist center and everyday stress.

• Spotting Masies: even though they have been swallowed up by the city, you can still find many old farmhouses in Horta-Guinardó. Most of these have been transformed into restaurants, schools, or community institutions. Some of my favorites are Can Cortada, Can Travi Nou, and Can Carabassa.
• Following the Water Route: because Horta was rich in water, it’s not surprising that an underground water canal was built with various water towers to supply its residents. The Mina de can Travi was laid in 1860 and has a length of 1,400 meters spread over the streets Jerez, Plana, Sanpere i Miquel, Rajoler, Horta, Plaça Castelao, and Cartellà. Four of the old water towers still exist; Torre d’aigua del Carrer Santpere i Miquel, Torre d’aigua de la Plaça de Les Masies, Torre d’aigua i font del Carrer Horta, and Torre d’aigua del Carrer Cartellà (at the corner with Carrer Pitàgores).
• Hiking in Nature: the hilly environment and the many green hills that form Horta-Guinardó are perfect for a vigorous walk. A beautiful route to follow is that of the Tres Turons, which runs along Turó de la Rovira, Turó del Carmel, and Turó de la Creueta del Coll. Your physical exertion will be rewarded with beautiful views of the city that you can admire for hours.
• Sports: in addition to hiking, you can also do sports here, both outdoors and at one of the many gyms. From football, basketball, swimming, and tennis to track cycling or rugby. Sports facilities such as Velòdrom d’Horta and Palau d’Esports de la Vall d’Hebron date back to the Olympic Games in Barcelona and are still widely used.
• Taking Bus Line 87: if you like a thrilling ride, definitely take bus line 87, which takes you from Horta to Gràcia through El Carmel. The boarding stop is at the corner of Passeig de Maragall and Carrer Tajo. Then follows a ride of about an hour through the most winding steep roads and impossible turns to cross the mountain of El Carmel and arrive at Gràcia. Along the way, you can of course get off and enjoy the beautiful viewpoints you come across.
• Viewpoints: in the high neighborhoods of Horta-Guinardó, such as El Carmel and Guinardó, you can find beautiful views over the city, often completely unknown to tourists. A very nice viewpoint is that of Mirador de Mundet (also called Mirador d’Horta), on the northern side of Horta, where a swing hangs from a tree overlooking the city. A very Instagram-worthy spot with an amazing view! But beware: it seems that the swing is sometimes removed, so it is not certain that you will find it during a visit to the Mirador de Mundet.

Horta-Guinardó with Kids

After the mandatory stop at the labyrinth of Parc del Laberint, you can take your kids to the giant matches by Oldenburg (where they can climb and play) and then head to the play equipment in Parc de les Rieres d’Horta. Afterward, you can explore the cozy neighborhood of Horta, but not without first grabbing an ice cream at La Eivissenca or some treats from Galette & Pastim, and then sitting down at the child-friendly squares of Bacardí or Castelao, which have the necessary playgrounds for the kids and terraces for the parents.

Also fun: at the beginning of Ronda del Guinardó, in front of the beautiful Casa de les Altures, you’ll find the last working street carousel in Barcelona, the Tiovivo Ronda del Guinardó.

Events in Horta-Guinardó

Throughout the year, various events are organized in Horta-Guinardó, although most are only attended by the neighborhood residents.

• Mercat de pagès a la plaça de Bacardí: every first and third Saturday of the month, a farmers’ market is organized at Plaça de Bacardí between 10:00 and 16:00.
• Horta neighborhood festival: every September, a festival is celebrated in Horta with a fair and more.
• Macrofestivals in Velódrom d’Horta: for New Year’s Eve or Sant Joan celebrations, events are often organized in El Velódrom.

Eating in Horta-Guinardó

Horta-Guinardó is not really known for its culinary hotspots. However, most of the bars and restaurants that are there are of good quality. Definitely try eating at one of the old masies like Can Cortada and Can Travi Nou to discover the real Catalan cuisine! Some of my favorite dining addresses in Horta-Guinardó are listed below.

Coffee and Bakeries

• Galette & Pastim (Carrer del Tajo, 21): trendy artisan bakery. Due to its success, there are often long lines outside.
• Pastisseria Rovira (Passeig de Maragall, 413): the place for the most delicious cakes and pastries.
• L’Obrador dels 15 (Passeig de Maragall, 209): a bakery where you can also sit for a coffee with something sweet. Open since 1925!

Lunch Spots

• Patio Urbano (Carrer de Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 182): hip flexitarian with homemade dishes and a fantastic courtyard. They also regularly organize events and workshops to stimulate the creative mind.
• La Cuina del Guinardó (Carrer Varsovia, 148): small-scale restaurant with homemade dishes. Also available for takeout.
• La Vitaminica d’Horta (Passeig de Maragall, 413): a vegetarian-friendly restaurant with a very good price-quality ratio.

Restaurants

• Punto y Coma (Passeig de Maragall, 408): the old known Frankfurt Horta is now transformed into a hip burger restaurant. A real hotspot among locals.
• El Racó del Peix (Carrer del Tajo, 8): seafood restaurant with Mediterranean dishes. They have a beautiful outdoor terrace.
• Restaurant 1902 (Carrer Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 167): the beautiful café and restaurant of the modernist Hospital de Sant Pau.

Tapas Bars

• Quimet d’Horta (Plaça d’Eivissa, 10): well-known café and tapas bar with an outdoor terrace at the lively Plaça Eivissa. Don’t miss the homemade croquetas and ciabatta sandwiches.
• Bodega Massana (Carrer d’Horta, 1): old-fashioned bodega where wine is still served from the barrel alongside hearty breakfasts, the so-called esmorzars de forquilla.
• Delicias (Carrer de Mühlberg, 1): authentic tapas bar where you can eat among locals. Try their patatas bravas, callos, and morros fritos. Note that the portions here are relatively large!

Drinking and Going Out in Horta-Guinardó

Apart from the super fun bar and nightclub Samba Brasil, Horta-Guinardó is not really known for its nightlife. Some places where you can go out for an evening are:

• Samba Brasil (Carrer de Santes Creus, 20): fun cocktail bar on a cozy courtyard with an adjoining nightclub where Brazilian music is played.
• Ateneu Popular La Bugadera (Plaça d’Eivissa, 17): cozy pub to drink beers with friends.
• Louise Se Va (Plaça d’Eivissa, 11): fun bar in rock-‘n-roll atmosphere where you can also order tasty sandwiches.

Staying in Horta-Guinardó

Since this is not a tourist hotspot and is quite far from the center, there are not many hotels in the vicinity of Horta-Guinardó. This district is only suitable if you are looking for peace and the authentic Barcelona, or when you need to be near the hospital. These hotels are usually much cheaper than those in the center of Barcelona.