Barcelona, famous for its vibrant food culture, offers a unique seasonal experience with the arrival of calçots, a type of green onion native to Catalonia. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a local, enjoying calçots during their peak season (winter to early spring) is an absolute must. In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about this iconic Catalan delicacy—from what calçots are and how they’re eaten to the best places in Barcelona to enjoy an authentic calçotada (calçot feast).
What is a Calçot?
A calçot is a unique variety of onion native to Catalonia, particularly the area around Valls in Tarragona. It is larger than a typical onion, resembling a spring onion, but with a much milder and sweeter flavor.
The name “calçot” has an interesting origin—it comes from the Catalan verb calçar, which refers to the traditional farming technique of piling soil around the onion shoots as they grow. This process encourages the stems to lengthen, giving calçots their distinctive shape and tender texture.
How Are Calçots Prepared?
The preparation of calçots is an art in itself. Traditionally, they are grilled over an open flame or on a barbecue until the outer skin becomes charred and the interior softens. The process is relatively simple, but it requires attention to ensure the perfect balance of smoky flavor and tender texture.
Here’s the typical process for preparing calçots:
- Grilling: The calçots are placed on a hot grill or open flame. The outer skin should get charred and blackened, while the inside softens.
- Wrapping: Once they’re done, they are usually wrapped in newspaper or a cloth to keep them warm.
- Serving: After wrapping, they are served in bunches. The charred outer layers are peeled away, leaving the soft, sweet interior ready for dipping.
How Do You Eat Calçots?
Eating calçots is a hands-on experience, and part of the fun is embracing the mess! Here’s how to do it like a pro:
- Put on your bib and gloves – Most restaurants provide a bib and gloves to keep you from getting too messy. Trust me, you’ll need them!
- Peel off the charred outer layer – Hold the calçot by its green top and gently strip away the blackened outer skin to reveal the tender, juicy white core.
- Dip it in romesco sauce – Generously dunk the calçot into romesco sauce, a flavorful Catalan blend of roasted tomatoes, garlic, almonds, and red peppers. The sauce adds a rich, tangy contrast to the sweetness of the calçots.
- Eat with your hands – Tilt your head back, lift the calçot above your mouth, and lower it in one smooth motion. No forks or knives—just bite and enjoy!
Calçots are typically just the first course of a full calçotada feast.
After enjoying your fill (you can usually eat as many as you like), the meal continues with a variety of grilled meats, such as butifarra (Catalan sausage), grilled chicken, and tender lamb, along with other traditional Catalan options. Roasted vegetables like escalivada, patates (potatoes), and mongetes (beans) are served as side dishes, accompanied by the famous pa amb tomaquet (bread with tomato).
To finish, indulge in crema catalana, a delicious dessert similar to crème brûlée, that perfectly rounds off this hearty meal.
So, pace yourself and prepare for a true Catalan food experience!
When Do You Eat Calçots?
You eat calçots during the calçotada season, which typically runs from late November to early April, with the peak months being January, February, and March. This is when calçots are at their freshest and are traditionally grilled over an open flame before being dipped in romesco sauce and enjoyed with friends and family.
Many restaurants, countryside masías, and traditional Catalan eateries offer special calçotada menus during this time, making it the perfect season to indulge in this delicious Catalan tradition!
The Best Restaurants to Eat Calçots in Barcelona
Now that you know what calçots are and how they’re enjoyed, here are some of the best restaurants in Barcelona to experience this beloved Catalan tradition. Keep in mind that reservations are highly recommended, as these spots fill up quickly during calçotada season, with groups of friends and families gathering to savor this seasonal specialty.
1. Can Cortada
Located at the foot of the Collserola hills, Can Cortada is an ideal spot for those looking for a rustic yet refined setting. This family-owned restaurant offers a beautiful, cozy atmosphere perfect for enjoying a classic calçotada. Known for its longstanding history and commitment to traditional Catalan cuisine, Can Cortada delivers an authentic calçot experience in a wonderful setting.
2. Can Travi Nou
Nestled in a charming, historic farmhouse in the Horta-Guinardó district of Barcelona, Can Travi Nou offers a perfect blend of Catalan tradition with a modern twist. It’s an ideal choice for those seeking a calçotada in the city. The restaurant’s tranquil setting provides a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of Barcelona, while its rich history and unique atmosphere make it one of the top spots for an unforgettable calçotada experience.
3. Can Martí
Nestled in the heart of Collserola Natural Park, just a stone’s throw from the Valvidriera neighborhood and the iconic Collserola Communications Tower, Can Martí offers a charming farmhouse setting where you can savor a hearty, traditional calçotada. With stunning views over the city of Barcelona and surrounded by lush nature, this restaurant is renowned for its rustic ambiance and home-style cooking. It’s the perfect spot for a family outing or a gathering with friends, combining great food and a truly unique location.
4. Bodega Joan
Located in the Eixample district, Bodega Joan is a beloved neighborhood gem renowned for its outstanding calçotadas and cozy, rustic atmosphere. With its consistent quality, traditional dishes, and excellent value for money, it’s the perfect spot to enjoy a relaxed and delicious calçotada meal without venturing too far from the city center.
5. Restaurant Masia Can Sardà
Tucked away in the Collserola hills, Restaurant Can Sardà provides a more intimate calçotada experience, with a cozy atmosphere and a menu full of high-quality Catalan dishes. The restaurant’s emphasis on fresh, local ingredients and traditional cooking methods ensures an unforgettable calçotada. Its picturesque location, surrounded by nature, makes it a favorite among locals seeking a peaceful escape while enjoying this iconic Catalan feast.
6. El Molí de Cal Dimoni
For those willing to venture just outside Barcelona, El Molí de Cal Dimoni in Badalona offers a truly unique and authentic calçotada experience. Set in a charming old mill, this restaurant is renowned for its flavorful calçots, served in unlimited portions. The combination of a picturesque setting and exceptional food makes it well worth the short journey from the city for an unforgettable dining experience.
Tip: Want to experience an unforgettable calçotada? Then head to the city of Valls, where they celebrate the legendary Gran Festa de la Calçotada de Valls at the end of January. This is a massive, traditional festival where everything revolves around this iconic dish, attracting huge crowds for a truly authentic calçot experience!
Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or a newcomer to Catalan cuisine, enjoying calçots in Barcelona is a must-do experience. It’s not just about the taste; it’s about embracing a cultural tradition that brings people together over smoky flavors, delicious romesco sauce, and great company.
Have you ever experienced a calçotada? I’d love to hear about your experience! Feel free to share your thoughts, tips, or any hidden gems you’ve discovered for the best calçotadas in Barcelona. Do you have any other restaurant recommendations to add to this list? Leave your comments below!
